The Fish Butchery

In the restaurant, there are 3 large refrigerators used for fish aging. This preservation method is used to enhance the aroma of the fish, as the liquids dry out and concentrate the flavor of the fish, also changing its texture. To prepare them for aging, the components of the fish carrying bacteria are removed, and the scales are not scraped off.

The chef prefers not to stress the fish meat and uses a sharp knife to remove the most superficial layer of skin. The fishes are then cleaned. The heads are used for broths and also grilled, trying to recover as much product as possible. The milt, when available, is preserved and used to create sauces.

In Japan, he learned the technique of Ikejime,  whose purpose is to quickly bring the fish into a state of brain death so that it does not suffer. He is one of the few chefs in Italy to use this technique but is working to spread it more and more.

Eels are very strong animals, and the chef specifically requests them to be alive to ensure they are killed in the best way. Once Ikejime is done, they are put in boiling water for a few seconds to remove the sticky part from the eel’s skin.

Andrea offers an Omakase menu, but before starting the tasting, he explains its meaning: diners put themselves in the hands of the chef, who proposes the dishes based on the availability of raw materials. It starts with the welcome, a very fresh oyster with ponzu and Japanese basil. A lively start that announces the high quality of the entire menu. For the entrée, they use parts of the fish that are usually discarded, in this case, it’s a small black sesame cracker topped with a fish liver pâté, they call it fish fois gras. It’s extremely fresh. Then comes the soup of the day with dashi and kombu seaweed, coriander and paprika oil. It needs to be mixed and tasted.

It’s then time for marinated mackerel sashimi in rice vinegar, a bit of oil and ginger served with a wonderful Bao bun to mop it up. A more elaborate version of the usual sashimi we’re used to. Next is the moment for Mediterranean tuna, marinated in salt and sugar and then aged. It’s paired with wasabi and pink grapefruit zest. The first part ends with a mixed fish ceviche marinated in the juice of various citrus fruits, then served with seasonal fruit and vegetables. This dish is acidic, sweet, and rich in textures. With every bite, you taste different flavor, and finishing it is a real pleasure.

It’s time for nigiri, the chef skillfully slices various fish that will be served and paired with different ingredients. In each one, you can appreciate the freshness of the fish and the combination of flavours. They are alternated with marinated ginger to cleanse the palate between each bite.
It starts with a sea bass nigiri with wasabi and kombu seaweed, followed by a trout nigiri and its eggs. Andrea does not use salmon for ethical and sustainability reasons. Instead, he uses trout, which comes very fresh from Trentino.

There’s a mullet nigiri with plum marinated in sake.
A red mullet nigiri with bottarga and a gilt-head bream nigiri with a pesto of tomatoes, olives, and capers, a beautiful fusion of flavors. It ends with a cuttlefish and cedar nigiri, with a curious texture, and one of amberjack and green pepper.

Andrea surprised us with a grilled seabream head topped with a fish broth. You’re encouraged to use your hands to make sure you eat all the fish meat. A dish you don’t expect to be so good. Try it to believe it. The menu heads towards the end with the main course: sautéed rice with a sauce of milt and liver, a fish broth and beetroot, and a grouper head ragù. Homemade tuna bresaola is grated on top. It’s a very intense dish, rich in flavors and very well-balanced.

The menu concludes with dessert: a grilled kiwi and a goat ricotta ice cream, garnished with wasabi and caramel. The chef recommends alternating flavours, in its simplicity, this dish is very satisfying and perfectly concludes the Omakase experience of Andrea Arcieri and his team.